PoE+ Camera vs Standard PoE: Which Cameras Need PoE+?

A PoE+ camera is a camera that asks for more power over its network cable than the original PoE standard is designed to deliver. Most fixed bullet and dome cameras run happily on standard PoE, while pan-tilt-zoom (PTZ) models, cameras with a built-in heater, floodlight cameras and some multi-lens cameras often need a PoE+ port. The camera label or manual tells you which one your model needs; the switch or NVR spec sheet tells you which ports can supply it. If those two do not match, the usual result is a camera that boots, then reboots when it moves, heats up or turns on its light.

This article explains the difference between the two and how to check your own equipment. For the full wiring order, from choosing a switch to bench testing, see the step-by-step PoE camera setup guide.

What PoE and PoE+ actually mean

PoE (Power over Ethernet) sends power and data down the same network cable, so a camera needs no power socket at the mounting point. There is more than one generation of it:

• Standard PoE is the original version. It supplies enough power for a typical fixed camera with infrared night vision.
• PoE+ is the higher-power version. Per port, it can deliver roughly twice what standard PoE can. It exists for devices that need more, such as motorised cameras and wireless access points.
• Newer high-power versions go further still. They are mostly relevant to large outdoor PTZ units and heavy floodlight models; if your camera label asks for one of these, a PoE+ port will not be enough either.

The important point for camera owners: the generations are designed to work together in one direction. A PoE+ port can power a standard PoE camera, because the camera only takes what it needs. A standard PoE port cannot reliably power a camera that asks for PoE+.

You may also see a "class" number on labels and spec sheets. The class is how the camera tells the switch how much power to set aside for it when it first connects. You do not need to memorise the classes; you just need the camera's class or wattage to fit inside what the port offers.

Which cameras usually need PoE+

These are general patterns, not rules. The only reliable answer is the label and manual for your exact model, because two cameras that look the same can come in different versions.

Usually fine on standard PoE

• Fixed bullet and dome cameras with infrared night vision.
• Fixed turret cameras without extra lamps or heaters.
• Indoor fixed cameras with a wired port.

Often need PoE+

• PTZ cameras. The pan and tilt motors, and the zoom motor if the model has optical zoom, add load every time the camera moves. A poe ptz camera draws the most when it is moving and its night vision is on at the same time.
• Cameras with a built-in heater or fan. Outdoor models meant for cold climates may switch on a heater to keep the lens clear. The heater can be a large share of the camera's total draw.
• Floodlight cameras. The lamps are the biggest single load. Our guide to powering a PoE floodlight camera covers that case in detail.
• Cameras with strong white-light or long-range infrared, especially larger outdoor models.
• Multi-lens or panoramic cameras, which run more than one sensor at a time.

Sirens, speakers and two-way audio also add a little, but on their own they rarely push a camera from standard PoE into PoE+.

Step 1: read the camera label and manual

Check these for every camera before you choose ports or buy a switch:

1. The PoE type. Look next to the network port specification on the label, the box or the manual's power section. It may say "PoE", "PoE+", a class number, or a combination.
2. The maximum power consumption in watts. Many manuals give a typical figure and a maximum. Plan with the maximum, because that is what the camera draws when the motors, infrared, heater or light are all running.
3. Whether PoE is supported at all. Some cameras have a network socket for data only and need a separate power adapter. If the only power input listed is a DC socket, it is not a PoE camera.

If the label is missing, faded or unclear, ask the seller for the PoE type and maximum draw of your exact model and batch. Write the answers down; you will need them in the next steps.

Step 2: check what each port can supply

Your switch, PoE NVR or injector has its own limits, and they are not always printed in large letters.

• Port type. Look at the front panel and the spec sheet. Some switches offer PoE+ on every port, others only on a few ports, which are usually marked differently or grouped together. On a PoE NVR, the manual lists which camera ports supply which PoE type.
• Total power budget. This is the total the whole device can supply across all ports at once. It is often less than the per-port maximum multiplied by the number of ports. A switch with eight PoE+ ports may not be able to run eight PoE+ cameras at full load.
• Injectors. A single-port injector has no shared budget, but it still has a PoE type and a maximum output. A standard PoE injector will not run a PoE+ camera properly.

Then match them: every camera that asks for PoE+ must be plugged into a port that supplies PoE+. Label those ports and those cables so nobody swaps them later.

Step 3: check the total budget with a worked example

Port type is only half the job. The total also has to fit.

A worked example with assumed figures: suppose your PTZ camera's manual lists a maximum of 20 watts, and you have three fixed cameras whose manuals each list a maximum of 6 watts. The peak total is 20 + 6 + 6 + 6 = 38 watts. A switch with a budget of 40 watts covers that on paper, but leaves almost no margin. A switch with a clearly larger budget would be the safer choice. These figures are only an illustration; use the real maximums from your own manuals and the real budget from your own switch.

One detail catches people out. Some switches reserve power by the class each camera announces, not by what it actually draws. A PoE+ class camera may cause the switch to reserve a large slice of the budget even when the camera is idle, so the switch can refuse to power the last camera you plug in while the actual total draw looks low. If a new camera will not start and the others are fine, check whether your switch reserves by class; its manual or web page usually says.

What a mismatch looks like

When a camera that needs PoE+ is on a standard PoE port, or the switch is near its budget, the symptoms usually line up with the moment the extra load starts:

• The camera reboots when it pans or tilts. The motors start, the draw jumps past what the port can give, and the camera restarts. In the app it goes offline for a short while and then comes back.
• The camera never finishes its start-up self-check. Many PTZ models rotate through their full range when powered on. If it stops part way and starts again, the port is likely too weak.
• The camera works in the day and drops at dusk. Infrared switches on for every camera at roughly the same moment, and a system near its limit tips over.
• The camera drops out on cold nights. The heater switches on, and the extra draw is more than the port or budget allows.
• Live view works but the camera will not move. Some cameras power up in a reduced mode on a weaker port and disable the motors. Not every model does this, but if moving fails only on one port, suspect power first.
• A different camera goes offline when the PTZ moves. The switch is cutting another port to stay within its total budget.

Many PoE switches have a status light per port, and managed switches usually show each port's power draw on their web page. A port at or near its limit, or a total close to the budget, confirms the cause.

Fixes, from easiest to most involved

1. Move the camera to a PoE+ port on the same switch or NVR, if one is free.
2. Spread the load. Move a few fixed cameras to a second switch so the PoE+ camera has budget to spare.
3. Add a PoE+ injector for that one camera. It sits between the switch and the camera and supplies power only to that cable.
4. Check the cable. Long runs and copper-coated aluminium cable lose more power, and the loss matters more at PoE+ levels. Use solid copper cable and keep each run within the length your manuals recommend.
5. Reduce peak demand in the app. On many models you can lower PTZ speed, shorten or switch off automatic patrols, or adjust night vision and light settings. Menu names differ slightly by app version and model, so look in the camera's settings for PTZ, night mode or light options.
6. Replace the switch with one that has enough PoE+ ports and a larger total budget.

After any change, test under the worst conditions: after dark, with the PTZ camera moving through its presets and every other camera streaming. If you also control the camera from a recorder, our article on moving a PTZ camera from your NVR explains how to stop the app and the recorder from sending conflicting moves, so you are testing one patrol at a time.

Buying a PoE security camera system: a short checklist

If you are still choosing equipment, a few checks save a second purchase:

• List every camera's PoE type and maximum draw before choosing the switch or NVR.
• Count your PoE+ cameras and make sure the switch has at least that many PoE+ ports, plus one spare if you might add a PTZ later.
• Compare the total budget with the sum of maximums, and leave clear headroom.
• Prefer standards-based PoE equipment over passive injectors unless your camera's manual says passive is allowed. Passive injectors send power without checking what is connected.
• Think about the mounting point. A PTZ camera needs room to rotate and a secure mount, which our PTZ camera installation guide covers step by step.

A PoE+ switch is not wasted on standard cameras. It gives you room to add a PTZ, heater or floodlight model later without changing the switch.

When to get help

Ask for help in these situations:

• You need to run cable up a wall, along a roof edge or through an outside wall. Ladder and roof work is risky; use someone experienced. If any mains wiring is involved, switch off the power and use a qualified electrician.
• You cannot find the PoE type for your camera or switch. The seller or the switch maker's spec sheet can confirm it; guessing wastes money.
• You have checked type, budget and cable, and the camera still reboots when it moves. Contact the seller with the camera model, the switch model and a description of exactly when it fails. They can confirm the maximum draw for your batch and whether a firmware update is available.
• The camera or switch gets hot, smells of burning or shows damage. Disconnect it and stop using it until it has been checked.

Install or resell cameras?

If you fit cameras for customers, record the PoE type and maximum draw for every model you stock, and keep a simple sheet per job listing each camera, its port and the switch's total budget. Quote the switch from that sheet rather than from habit, and put PTZ, heater and floodlight models on PoE+ ports from the start. Before you leave, run a dusk test with every camera streaming and the PTZ running a patrol, because a system that passes at midday can fail on its first cold night. Carry a PoE+ injector as a quick fix for a tight budget, and label the PoE+ ports and cables so the customer does not swap them later. If you install or sell security cameras and want to discuss supply and dealer terms, see the Yoosee partner information.

Frequently asked questions

Can I plug a standard PoE camera into a PoE+ switch?

Yes. Standards-based PoE+ ports are backward compatible, so a standard camera works normally on them. Just keep the switch's total budget in mind as you add cameras.

Will a PoE+ camera work on a standard PoE port at all?

Sometimes it powers up, but you should not rely on it. Some models start in a reduced mode with motors or heaters disabled, and others boot and then reboot when the extra load starts. Move it to a PoE+ port or give it its own PoE+ injector.

Do I need special cable for a PoE+ camera?

Usually not; the same type of network cable works for both. Cable quality matters more at higher power, so use solid copper cable rather than copper-coated aluminium, and keep runs within the length your camera and switch manuals recommend.

Does a PoE+ camera use more electricity at home?

It can draw more at peak, but a camera only takes what it needs at each moment. A PTZ camera that is standing still with night vision off may draw little more than a fixed camera. The PoE+ rating tells you the peak it may need, not what it draws all day.

Is a PoE+ switch worth it if all my cameras are standard PoE?

It is worth considering if you might add a PTZ, heater or floodlight camera later. Otherwise a standard PoE switch with enough total budget for your cameras is fine. Either way, compare the total budget with the sum of your cameras' maximum draw.