AV Out Cable for Camera: Connecting CCTV Straight to a TV

Yes, you can show a security camera on a TV without a recorder, but only if the camera sends an analog video signal. An AV out cable for a camera simply carries that composite (CVBS) signal from the camera's video lead to the yellow AV input on the TV, while the camera gets power from its own adapter. The picture is live only: nothing is recorded, there is no phone viewing, and an HD analog camera must first be switched to its plain CVBS output or the TV will show a blank or rolling screen.

This guide covers what to check before you buy a cable, how to wire it up step by step, what each symptom on the TV means, and when the direct route is the wrong choice.

First: is your camera the right type?

The whole method depends on what comes out of the camera. There are three common cases.

Analog CVBS camera. The oldest type of CCTV camera. Its cable tail usually has a BNC video plug (round, twist-lock) and a small round DC power socket. Some small cameras have a yellow RCA plug instead of BNC. This type connects to a TV directly with the right adapter.

HD analog camera (TVI and similar formats). It looks almost identical: same coax cable, same BNC plug. But by default it sends a high-definition signal that an ordinary TV AV input cannot decode. Many of these cameras can be switched down to CVBS, which then works on a TV at standard definition. If yours cannot be switched, it needs a recorder.

Network camera (most Wi-Fi and app cameras, including most Yoosee models). It sends video as data over Wi-Fi or a network cable to an app. Most standalone network cameras have no video output socket for a TV at all. Some models do have a small service video lead meant for aiming the lens during installation, so check the manual for your model before assuming either way. If you have a network camera, the realistic routes to a TV are covered in how to watch your camera on a television.

If you are not sure which family your camera belongs to, the article on the difference between IP and analog CCTV cameras explains how to tell from the cable, the label and the box.

What you need

For an analog camera going straight to a TV, the parts are simple:

• The camera's video lead. On most CCTV cameras this ends in a BNC plug. Some small cameras end in an RCA plug.
• A BNC to RCA adapter (if the camera uses BNC). This is a small barrel that turns the BNC plug into the yellow RCA plug a TV expects. A short BNC-to-RCA cable does the same job.
• A video cable long enough to reach. Coax with BNC ends is the usual choice for longer runs. A plain RCA cable is fine for a short desk test.
• A power supply that matches the camera. Most analog CCTV cameras run on low-voltage DC from a plug-in adapter, but voltage, current and plug size vary by model. Read the label on the camera or the manual and match all three. Check polarity too: the wrong polarity can damage the camera.
• A TV with a composite input. Look for a yellow socket labelled AV, Video, CVBS or Composite. Many newer TVs no longer have a full-size yellow socket. Some have a small combined AV jack that needs the TV maker's own breakout lead, and some have no analog input at all.

If your TV has only HDMI inputs, add a composite to HDMI converter. It takes the yellow RCA signal in and gives HDMI out. These usually need their own small power supply, so keep a socket free for it.

You may also see "camera to tv cable" sold as one combined lead that carries both video and power, often called a siamese or combo cable. It is convenient for longer runs because one cable goes to the camera, but the job it does is the same.

Step by step: camera to TV

Do this on a table first, with the camera next to the TV, before you mount anything.

1. Switch everything off. Unplug the TV and the camera's power adapter before you join any cables.
2. Connect the video lead. Fit the BNC to RCA adapter onto the camera's BNC plug, twist it until it locks, then push the RCA end into the TV's yellow video input. If the TV has red and white audio sockets next to it, leave them empty unless the camera has a separate audio lead.
3. Connect power to the camera. Plug the camera's DC socket into its adapter, then plug the adapter into the wall. On most cameras a small light or the infrared LEDs glow briefly when power arrives.
4. Turn on the TV and choose the input. Press Source, Input or AV on the TV remote and select the input you used. Its name may be AV, AV1, Video, Composite or similar; the label on the back of the TV next to the socket tells you which one.
5. Wait a few seconds. Some cameras take a moment to start. If the picture appears, you are done with the basic test.
6. If the screen stays blank or the picture rolls, move on to the next section before changing anything else.

When the bench test works, mount the camera and run the cable to the TV. Only change one thing at a time, so that if the picture disappears you know which step caused it.

Setting an HD analog camera to CVBS

If your camera is an HD analog model, this is the step most people miss. The TV is not broken; it simply cannot read the HD signal.

The control on the cable tail. Many multi-format cameras have a small joystick or a few buttons on a short lead near the plugs. On a lot of models, holding the joystick in one direction for several seconds cycles the output format. The manual lists which direction selects which format, and CVBS may be shown as "CVBS" or simply "analog". Change one step at a time and watch the TV. The screen usually goes blank briefly, then the picture appears when you reach CVBS.

A switch or wire loop. Some cameras use a small slide switch, or a pair of thin wires that you join or separate to change format. Switch off power before you touch either.

PAL or NTSC. Composite video comes in two main systems, and the camera must match the TV. If the picture is black and white, rolls vertically, or has a band moving through it, the systems probably do not match. The camera's menu or joystick often has a video system option; many TVs detect it automatically, but some have a setting in the picture menu.

If you also own a recorder and want to switch the camera back to HD later, the same controls work in reverse. The guide on fixing a TVI camera that shows no picture on a DVR explains matching formats on the recorder side.

What each symptom on the TV means

"No Signal" or a blue or black screen. The TV sees nothing on that input. Check that you selected the right input, that the RCA plug is in the yellow socket and not an audio one, and that the camera is powered. Then check the camera's format: an HD analog camera left on HD output often gives exactly this.

A picture that rolls, tears or flickers. The signal is reaching the TV but in a form it does not expect. Usually this means HD output instead of CVBS, or PAL and NTSC not matching.

Black and white in daylight. Often a PAL/NTSC mismatch. If the infrared lights are glowing during the day, the camera may instead be stuck in night mode, which points to the light sensor or power.

Picture appears, then drops out at night. When infrared switches on, the camera draws more current. An adapter that is only just strong enough can work in daylight and fail at night. Use an adapter that meets or exceeds the current shown on the camera label.

Snow, lines or a fuzzy image. A weak or noisy signal. Check the BNC adapter for a loose centre pin, try a shorter cable, and keep the video cable away from mains cables where you can.

Picture is fine but very soft. Expected. CVBS is standard definition, so even a sharp HD camera will look softer when switched down for a TV. That is a limit of the format, not a fault.

For a broader list of reasons a camera shows no picture, including network cameras, see how to fix a black live view.

What a direct connection cannot do

The direct route is useful, but be clear about its limits before you rely on it:

• Nothing is recorded. The TV only displays. If something happens while nobody is watching, there is no footage. For recording you need a recorder, or a network camera with a memory card or cloud storage.
• One camera per input. Each camera needs its own TV input. To see several cameras on one screen you need a recorder or a quad splitter.
• No phone or remote viewing. The signal never touches your network.
• Standard definition only. Fine for watching a gate or a baby room, not for reading details at a distance.
• The TV must stay on that input. Switching to a programme means losing the camera picture.

Good uses include a shop counter monitor so customers can see they are on camera, a gate or doorway view on a spare TV, or a quick bench test to prove a camera works before installation.

Safety and cable runs

Low-voltage camera adapters are generally safe to handle, but the adapter itself plugs into mains power. If you are adding a new socket, running cable through walls, or working near mains wiring, switch off the power and use a qualified electrician. For cameras mounted high up, use a stable ladder and have someone hold it.

Long cable runs reduce both video quality and the voltage reaching the camera. How far you can go depends on the cable, the camera and the adapter, so check the camera manual. If the picture is fine on the bench but poor after installation, the cable run is the likely cause.

When to get help

Ask the seller or an installer when:

• You have tried every format and video system setting and still get no stable picture.
• The camera shows no sign of power with a correctly matched adapter.
• You need recording, more than one camera on screen, or remote viewing. At that point the direct method is the wrong tool, and a recorder or a network camera system fits better.
• You are unsure whether your TV's small AV jack needs a special lead. The TV's manual or its maker can tell you which lead fits your model.

Install or resell cameras?

Customers often ask for "a camera that just plugs into the TV". A few habits make these jobs smoother:

• Ask about recording first. Many customers assume the TV records. Explain before the sale that a direct connection is live view only.
• Check the TV's inputs before you quote. If there is no composite input, bring a composite to HDMI converter and make sure there is a free power socket for it.
• Carry BNC to RCA adapters and a known-good short lead for bench tests on site.
• Set HD analog cameras to CVBS on the bench and label the cable tail with the format and video system, so the next person does not have to guess.
• Size the power supply for night use, when infrared is on, not just for daylight.

If you install or sell cameras for customers, details of the Yoosee dealer program are at business.yoosee.com.

Frequently asked questions

Can I connect a Wi-Fi camera to a TV with an AV cable?

Usually not. Most Wi-Fi cameras send video as network data to an app and have no analog video output. To see one on a TV you need something in the middle, such as a phone casting to the TV, a TV box running the app, or a computer connected by HDMI. Some models have a service video lead, so check your manual.

Do I need a recorder to see a CCTV camera on a TV?

Not for live viewing of an analog camera: a BNC to RCA adapter, a matching power supply and a TV with a composite input are enough. You do need a recorder if you want to save footage, watch several cameras on one screen, or check the cameras from your phone.

Does the AV out cable also carry audio?

The yellow plug carries video only. Most CCTV cameras have no microphone, and those that do usually provide a separate audio lead, often with a white or red RCA plug. If your camera has one, connect it to the matching audio input next to the TV's video socket.

Why does the camera work on my recorder but not on my TV?

The recorder can decode HD analog formats, but the TV's composite input only understands standard definition CVBS. Switch the camera's output to CVBS with its joystick, switch or menu, and check that PAL or NTSC matches the TV. Remember to switch it back if you return the camera to the recorder.

Can I split one camera to both a TV and a recorder?

A plain Y-splitter often weakens the signal and can cause a dim or noisy picture on both screens. A more reliable approach is to connect the camera to the recorder and use the recorder's own video output for the TV. Some recorders have a composite output as well as HDMI, so check the back panel of your model.