CCTV HDMI Cable: Fix "No Signal" From a DVR to a TV

When a recorder shows nothing on the TV, the cause is usually not the recorder itself. Work through the path in order: the TV must be on the right input, the cctv hdmi cable must be firmly seated and working, and the recorder must send a resolution the screen can display. If the cable and input are fine, connect a VGA monitor (or try a different screen), lower the recorder's output resolution, and switch back to the TV.

This article is about the link between a DVR or NVR and a TV or monitor. If the screen works and you see the recorder's menu, but one camera tile is black or says "No Video", that is a camera-side problem, covered in the guide to fixing a black live view on a CCTV camera.

First, tell what kind of "nothing" you are seeing

The message on the screen tells you where to look. Note exactly what you see before you start unplugging things.

• "No Signal" or "No Source", often on a blue or black screen with a small floating box. The TV is on, but nothing is arriving on the input it is watching. Think input selection, cable, port, or a recorder that is off or still starting up.
• "Out of Range", "Unsupported Mode" or "Not Supported". Something is arriving, but the TV cannot display it. This usually means a resolution or refresh-rate mismatch. The cable is probably fine.
• A picture that appears for a moment, then drops, or flickers on and off. A loose connector, a damaged or overly long cable, a cheap adapter, or a borderline resolution.
• The recorder's logo or menu appears, but the camera grid is black. The display path is working. The problem is the cameras, their cables or their power.
• Completely dark TV, no message at all. Check the TV itself: power, standby light, and whether it shows anything on other inputs.

A quick way to separate the recorder from the display: if your recorder is already set up for phone viewing, open the app. If live view and playback work there, the recorder is running and recording, and you are dealing purely with the screen connection. If the app also shows the recorder as offline, check the recorder's power and network first; the guide to getting a DVR online for phone viewing covers that side.

Step 1: check the recorder is actually running

Look at the front of the recorder. On most models a power light comes on straight away, and there may be a status or hard-drive light that flickers during startup. Listen for the fan and, on recorders with a hard drive, a faint spin-up sound.

• No lights at all: check the power adaptor is plugged in and switched on at the wall, and that the small barrel plug is pushed fully into the recorder. A failed adaptor can make a recorder look dead.
• Lights on, but it keeps beeping: many recorders beep when they detect a disk problem or a missing disk. That is a separate issue, but it does show the recorder is alive.
• Give it time. A recorder can take a minute or more to start before it sends any picture. Some TVs give up and show "No Signal" during that time, then do not pick the picture up when it arrives. Wait, then press the TV's input button again.

Step 2: select the right input on the TV

This sounds too simple, but it is one of the most common causes. TVs usually have several HDMI ports, labelled HDMI 1, HDMI 2 and so on, and the remote's Input or Source button cycles through them.

1. Look at the back or side of the TV and note the number printed next to the port the cable goes into.
2. Press Input or Source on the TV remote (not the recorder's remote, if it has one) and choose that exact number.
3. If someone has unplugged and replugged the cable, it may now be in a different port from before.

Some TVs switch inputs automatically when they detect a signal; many do not. If the TV has a setting that renames inputs, it may show a name rather than a number, so check the input list carefully.

Step 3: reseat and inspect the CCTV HDMI cable

The cable connects at two ends, and either can be the problem.

1. Unplug the HDMI cable at both the recorder and the TV.
2. Look at each plug. Bent shells, a cracked housing, or a plug that wobbles in the port are bad signs.
3. Push each plug back in firmly and straight. HDMI plugs do not lock, so a cable that hangs down under its own weight, or a recorder that has been moved, can pull the plug partly out.
4. If the recorder has both HDMI and VGA outputs, make sure you used the HDMI socket on the recorder, not a similar-looking port.

Cables that run behind furniture or through walls are easily crushed, kinked or pinched by a door. If the cable runs in a wall or ceiling and you suspect damage inside, do not cut into the wall yourself where there is mains wiring nearby; use a qualified electrician or installer.

Step 4: swap in a known-good cable and port

The fastest way to rule the cable in or out is to replace it, even temporarily.

• Borrow a short cable from another device, such as a TV box or games console, and connect the recorder directly to the TV with it. Move the recorder close to the TV for the test if you need to.
• Try a different HDMI port on the TV. Individual ports can fail, and on some TVs one port has different settings from the others.
• Try a different screen. A computer monitor with HDMI, or another TV, tells you quickly whether the problem follows the recorder or stays with the first TV.

If the short test cable works and your original long cable does not, the long run is the problem. Long HDMI runs can be unreliable, especially with thin or low-quality cables. The safe maximum depends on the cable, the resolution and the equipment, so check the cable maker's rating rather than assuming a length will work. For long distances, installers often use a powered HDMI extender, an active cable, or move the screen closer to the recorder.

Also remove anything in the middle while testing: HDMI splitters, switches, wall plates and adapters. Put them back one at a time once you have a picture, so you know which part caused the dropout.

Step 5: fix a resolution the TV cannot display

If you see "Out of Range" or "Not Supported", or the cable checks out and you still get nothing, the recorder may be sending a resolution or refresh rate the TV does not accept. This often happens after someone sets the recorder to its highest output for one monitor, then connects it to a different screen, or after a firmware update or reset changes the default.

Find a screen that can show the menu

You need to see the recorder's menu to change the setting. Options, in order of convenience:

1. A different TV or a computer monitor that supports a wider range of resolutions. Many computer monitors accept more modes than an older TV.
2. The recorder's VGA output. Many recorders have both HDMI and VGA sockets. Connect any monitor with a VGA input using a VGA cable. On many models both outputs carry the same picture, but on some the VGA output has its own resolution setting, or only one output is active at a time, so check your manual.
3. The recorder's web or app settings. Some recorders let you change output resolution from a computer browser on the same network or from the app. Many do not, so treat this as a bonus if your model supports it.

Change the output resolution

Once you can see the menu, look for a section called Display, Output, or Video Output; the name differs by model and firmware. Typical steps:

1. On many recorders, right-click with the recorder's mouse to open the menu, then sign in.
2. Go to the display or output settings.
3. Set the resolution to a common, lower mode that your TV lists in its manual. A widely supported HD mode is usually the safest starting point. Avoid the very highest option unless you know the TV supports it.
4. If there is a separate setting for HDMI and VGA, change the HDMI one.
5. Save and confirm. Some recorders count down and revert if you do not confirm, which protects you from losing the picture again.
6. Reconnect the HDMI cable to the TV and select the right input.

No VGA monitor and no second screen?

Some recorders have a key combination or a front-panel button that resets the output resolution to a safe default, and some restore a lower resolution after a factory reset. These differ by model, and a factory reset can clear other settings, including network and user settings, so read the manual for your recorder before trying either. If you do not have the manual, the seller or installer can usually tell you.

Step 6: check adapters and connection order

A few details trip people up even with a good cable and the right resolution.

• HDMI to VGA adapters (or the reverse) are not simple cables. Converting between them needs active electronics, and some adapters need their own power through a small USB lead. If you use one and get no picture, try powering it, or connect a screen with a matching input instead.
• Connection order can matter. On some recorders, the output is detected only at startup. If the TV was off or the cable was unplugged when the recorder started, it may not send a picture until it restarts. Plug in the cable, turn on the TV, select the input, then restart the recorder from its menu or by switching off its power at the wall and back on.
• Heat and dust. A recorder that runs hot can become unstable, and an unstable recorder can drop its video output. Check that its vents are clear; the guide on where to put a CCTV recorder covers ventilation and cable routing.

When moving the recorder or touching its power wiring, switch it off at the wall first. Do not open the recorder case or the power adaptor.

What about cameras connected to a TV without a recorder?

Many people searching for an hdmi cable for cctv camera to tv have wireless network cameras, not a recorder kit. Most standalone Wi-Fi cameras, including typical Yoosee cameras, have no HDMI socket (check your model's label or manual). They send video over the network to an app, so an HDMI cable has nothing to plug into on the camera. To show them on a TV, you need a phone, a TV box or a computer in the middle. The guide to watching Yoosee cameras on a TV covers all three routes.

If you have a recorder kit, the HDMI cable goes from the recorder to the TV, not from a camera.

When to get help

Contact the seller or your installer if:

• The recorder shows no picture on any screen, through HDMI or VGA, with a short known-good cable, and the app cannot reach it either.
• The recorder will not power on with a known-good adaptor, or keeps restarting.
• The picture only appears when the recorder is cool and drops once it warms up.
• The HDMI socket on the recorder is loose or physically damaged.
• You need new cable runs through walls or ceilings, or a new power outlet near the recorder; use a qualified electrician for anything involving mains wiring.

Have your recorder's model number, the on-screen message and the steps you tried ready.

Install or resell cameras?

Many display call-backs after a recorder installation can be avoided on the day:

• Set the output resolution to match the customer's actual screen before you leave, not the highest option in the menu.
• Test the final cable run in place, with the screen in its final position, and restart the recorder once to confirm the picture comes back after a reboot.
• Leave a short spare HDMI cable and note which TV input the recorder uses, on a label near the screen.
• Use rated cables or a powered extender for long runs, and avoid unpowered adapters for permanent installs.
• Show the customer the phone app, so they can still check cameras if the screen ever fails.

If you install or sell cameras and want supply and dealer details, see the Yoosee partner information.

Frequently asked questions

Does it matter which HDMI cable I use for a CCTV recorder?

For a short run between a recorder and a TV, a standard HDMI cable in good condition usually works fine; there is no special CCTV version. Quality matters more on long runs, where thin or poorly made cables are more likely to drop the picture. Check the cable maker's rating for the length you need.

Why does my DVR work on one TV but not another?

The two TVs probably accept different resolutions or refresh rates. The recorder may be set to a mode the first TV supports and the second does not. Lower the recorder's output resolution while it is connected to the working screen, save it, then move it to the other TV.

Can I use both HDMI and VGA on my DVR at the same time?

On many recorders, yes, and both show the same picture. On some models only one output is active at a time, or each has its own resolution setting. Check the display settings in your recorder's menu or its manual.

Is the recorder still recording if the TV shows no signal?

Usually yes, because the screen output and recording are separate jobs. Don't assume, though: a recorder that is off, restarting or reporting a disk fault will not be recording either. Confirm with playback in the phone app, or check recent footage once the picture is back.